Excitement for fashion’s grandest yearly occasion started building over the weekend, as the customary marquee went up over the steps of New York’s Metropolitan Museum. It was embellished with the words ‘Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion’, the title of the exhibition linked with this year’s Met Gala.

The exhibition aims to delve into ideas of rebirth and renewal, using nature to emphasize fashion’s fleeting nature. Similarly, the event’s central theme was closely linked to this concept. Attendees were tasked with creating outfits inspired by ‘The Garden of Time’, a dystopian tale penned by J.G. Ballard. It revolves around a couple leading a lavish life, which they eventually must bid farewell to.

Before the event, fashion fans worried that guests might interpret the ‘garden’ aspect of the theme too literally, leading to an overflow of floral dresses. Yet, this concern largely proved unfounded. Many seemed to grasp the darker themes of the novel, incorporating elements that reflected the challenges faced by the protagonists, Count Axel and his wife. Some creatively explored the idea of time dwindling away, with their attire hinting at the limited floral space shielding them from the looming darkness beyond their home’s boundaries.

Considering this, Met Gala guests had a plethora of opportunities to explore, ranging from historical allusions to the celebration of nature. These avenues offered ample room for creativity. Now, let’s take a glimpse at what adorned the majestic steps of the Met on the first Monday of May.

Loewe stole the spotlight for the evening: Met Gala

In addition to deciding what to wear, stylists for this edition likely grappled with another challenge: the recent changes in creative leadership at some major fashion houses. This meant that many brands were off-limits and consequently missed the chance to shine in the spotlight.

While the absence of Met favorites such as Valentino and Gucci was noticeable, celebrities seemed to find a reliable choice in the Spanish brand Loewe. It emerged as a frontrunner in dressing numerous attendees, even securing the honor of dressing Met Gala co-chair Anna Wintour.

Loewe naturally caught the attention of its top global brand ambassadors, including Met first-timer Taylor Russell. She famously earned a smile from Wintour at Loewe’s SS24 show by sporting a full metal jacket. At the Met Gala, she maintained her affinity for structured designs by donning a 3D molded bodice reminiscent of wood marquetry, which beautifully contrasted with a draped silk skirt.

Loewe maintained a consistent theme with a Grecian silhouette for Ariana Grande, replacing the timber look with mother-of-pearl. Her gown resembled an iridescent shell. Bodices remained prominent in Greta Lee’s ensemble, featuring sculptural elements adorned with 3D flowers cascading down the chantilly silk lace. This floral motif extended to Ayo Edebiri’s gown, embracing the ‘garden’ theme with an optical illusion.

The men of the moment, Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist, also embraced Loewe, which came as no surprise considering the brand’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, oversaw costume design for their recently released film, Challengers. This connection was further amplified by the film’s lead, Zendaya, hosting the Met Gala. While Faist opted for a double-breasted jacket and contrasting white tailored trousers, incorporating a sparkly radish brooch for a whimsical touch, O’Connor’s ensemble played with proportions. His elongated tailcoat echoed the ethereal details seen in Loewe’s AW24 women’s collection.

The men’s fashion truly hit the mark

As the evening progressed, men continued to impress, channeling the essence of Count Axel and adding a touch of drama to the night. Those representing Burberry, in particular, embodied the character flawlessly. F1 driver Lewis Hamilton, for instance, layered a floral embroidered coat over his double-breasted suit. Notably, the coat featured a quote from Alex Wharton’s poem ‘The Gardener’ intricately embroidered into its lining. Actor Barry Keoghan took the concept even further, opting for a Regency-era-inspired suit in olive velvet. He paired it with a ruffled poplin shirt, a pocket watch, and a wool top hat, completing the look with vintage flair.

Some opted for a more understated style, but this didn’t mean there weren’t any surprises. Designer Tom Ford himself kept the fashion industry guessing. Instead of wearing a look from his own brand, which he retired from in 2022, he chose to be dressed by Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent. Speaking to Vogue on the red carpet, Ford, who had previously headed Yves Saint Laurent, praised Vaccarello as a “terrific designer,” marking a notable shift from his past criticisms of the brand.

In other instances, guests showed a bit more coordination, both in their appearance and their choice of designer. ‘The Talented Mr. Ripley’ star Jude Law, for instance, was spotted arm-in-arm with designer Donatella Versace and Andrew Scott, the current Tom Ripley in the latest adaptation of the thriller. Their understated looks, surprisingly restrained for the usually extravagant Versace, stood in contrast to the pastel ensembles of Kieran Culkin and Ed Sheeran, who also graced the carpet alongside the designer of their attire, Stella McCartney.

This contrasted with the synchronized look of the eight-member K-pop group Stray Kids, who sported the signature red, white, and blue palette of their host, Tommy Hilfiger. According to data from Dash Hudson, the group ranked among the top performers on social media. They came in second only to Zendaya in keyword mentions and claimed the top spot in engagement across Instagram, Twitter, and YouTube.

Thom Browne and the avant-gard

While refinement was embraced in menswear, there remained a place for theatrics, as is customary at the Met Gala. Leading the charge was Thom Browne, infusing the steps with whimsy through melodramatic designs. Cynthia Erivo, for instance, donned a cropped tuxedo jacket and flowing skirt by the brand, adorned with black sequins, beaded insects, and pink silk moiré petals.

Likewise, heavy beading adorned Rebecca Ferguson’s high-neck gown, cascading with Swarovski crystal florets and extending into a blue-lined cape. The pinnacle of this intricate design was seen in Gigi Hadid’s corset dress, accompanied by a tailored jacket that transformed into a bustling skirt embellished with 3D yellow roses and green vines.

Model Amelia Gray Hamlin made a curious interpretation of the theme for her Met Gala debut, opting for a look by Jun Takahashi’s Undercover. The brand had previously caused a stir online with its spring 2024 collection, featuring a transparent dome-like dress adorned with fluttering butterflies under the glow of fairy lights. Takahashi revisited this theme for Hamlin, who wore a bright yellow version of the original design, albeit without the live insects fluttering around.

Hamlin wasn’t alone in pushing the boundaries of fashion. South African singer Tyla made a head-turning Met Gala debut in her Balmain ensemble, seemingly crafted entirely from sand. Instead of a handbag, she carried an hourglass, reflecting both her own silhouette and the theme of time, which was heavily referenced throughout the event.

Lana Del Rey also made a statement with a gown of significant sculptural importance, the first at the Met Gala to be created by Alexander McQueen’s newest creative director, Sean McGirr. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s archives, McGirr crafted a look reminiscent of Tyla’s, with a beach-worthy vibe. This was evident in the use of natural hawthorn branches forming a raised headpiece towering above the corseted dress. Similarly, Paloma Elsesser embraced a dystopian aesthetic with her two-piece gown, unexpectedly designed by H&M. The ensemble featured a bubble-hem silk taffeta skirt paired with a 3D-printed and electroformed metallic bodice in an oxidized green hue.

The high street takes the red carpet

At first glance, H&M might seem like an unexpected choice for a prominent spot on the red carpet. However, the high street label has been making waves among fashion’s elite for years. It has previously dressed some of the biggest stars for popular Met Gala themes, including 2018’s Heavenly Bodies and 2022’s Gilded Glamour. This year was no exception. Once again, the retailer brought a lineup of models and famous figures to the Met steps, outfitting them in pieces designed by H&M’s in-house design team, who typically handle the more exclusive collections.

Some selected pieces from H&M’s own archives, such as comedian Awkwafina’s custom gown, which drew inspiration from an archival ‘Hennes’ wedding dress, evident in its tulip skirt silhouette. Model Quannah Chasinghorse, on the other hand, showcased her Alaskan heritage by incorporating the state’s flower into her Cinderella-esque ballgown, complete with a tulle crinoline underskirt.

Another unexpected participant was Gap. However, this surprise is less startling considering the presence of the brand’s creative director, Zac Posen, who has previously appeared on the Met Gala steps numerous times with his own brand. For this year’s event, Posen posed alongside Oscar winner Da’Vine Joy Randolph, who donned a floor-sweeping denim gown paying homage to Gap’s legacy in the denim world. Posen himself opted for a made-to-measure suit from Gap’s sister brand, Banana Republic, which has already offered inspired versions to the public.

Pastel boho babes

The “out-of-place” presence wasn’t limited to high street brands. Luxury designers also deviated from the typical extravagance of the Met Gala to promote a more casual approach to red carpet attire. Chloé’s latest creative director, Chemena Kamali, made her debut at the event, bringing along four notable actresses and directors to showcase her refreshed interpretation of the house’s signature style. While her bohemian-esque looks were unexpected against the backdrop of high fashion at the Met Gala, their 70’s flair, evident in ruffled edges, floral lace, and cape sleeves, still resonated with the theme of bygone eras.

Bohemian style itself emerged as somewhat of a trend on the red carpet. Singer FKA Twigs, for instance, donned a hand-embroidered co-ord by Stella McCartney, featuring diamond-embroidered mesh hotpants and a bodice paired with a cascading cloak made of hand-knit loops crafted from responsibly sourced alpaca yarn, aligning with the designer’s ethical and environmental values. Similar netting was also spotted in Jodie Turner-Smith’s Burberry ensemble, where a tulle dress was layered under a pearl-embellished mesh gown.

Chanel and Dior remained faithful to minimalist classics

Chanel appeared to embrace nostalgia for the ‘hippie’ era with Michelle Williams’ organza mini dress from the brand’s SS24 collection. The dress featured flared white tulle sleeves and a cape. While this piece reflected a departure from Chanel’s usual style, the rest of the brand’s offerings remained true to its classic signatures. Gracie Abrams and Camila Morrone both chose two-piece looks, each with full textured skirts. Abrams adorned hers with ecru satin bows, while Morrone’s was embellished with feathers and beads.

Dior stayed true to its classic codes, evoking memories of archival collections. Both Rosalia and Willow Smith wore looks reminiscent of high fashion tailoring. Rosalia’s ensemble featured a bustier dress with a peplum waist that extended into a long train. On the other hand, Elizabeth Debicki opted for a velvet dress that was less form-fitting but still boasted a flowing train that cascaded onto the steps of the Met.

Swarovski’s couture debut

Dior and Chanel presented a stark contrast to the opulence of Swarovski. Marking its debut at the Met Gala, the Austrian jewelry brand ventured into the realm of couture gowns for the first time. Previously known for providing its famous crystals to other designers, Swarovski’s creative director, Giovanna Engelbert, was accompanied by four of the house’s muses at the event. Each muse was adorned in hundreds of thousands of crystals, showcasing a palette of colors that reflected Swarovski’s signature hues of green, pink, yellow, blue, and white.

In a statement, Engelbert expressed her vision, saying: “My goal was for our muses to embody elements of nature found in the enchanted crystalline garden, and for their gowns to seamlessly integrate with our jewelry – they transform, becoming one. I aimed to bring the same level of artistry and creativity to the looks as we bring to our jewelry, capturing nature’s beauty and joyful spirit, along with the elegance and extravagance of Swarovski at this significant moment for fashion and pop culture.”

Shimmering elegance persisted in Amanda Seyfried’s Prada gown, featuring intricate flower appliqués adorning its structured skirt. Seyfried also advocated for sustainability on the red carpet, sharing with Vogue that she had specifically requested an eco-friendly design for her look. Consequently, the fabric used for her dress was repurposed from Prada’s 2009 collection.

Marni embraced circular methods in the looks of both Charli XCX and Rita Ora. XCX’s draped white gown, for instance, was crafted from patchworked vintage t-shirts dating back to the 1950s and 1970s. These shirts were then adorned with rhinestones and glass beads, creating a signature “mending” effect with finely visible stitches. Similarly, Ora’s design featured a tapestry shredded into floor-sweeping strands of Murano glass beads from the 1940s and 1970s, combined with antique crystals.

Emerging designers secure a small but noticeable place at the Met

While young new designers were not heavily represented this year, their influence was still felt through the inclusion of both Connor Ives and Del Core in the lineup. Ives dressed artist Ivy Getty in a custom demi-couture gown, incorporating two Qing dynasty wall tapestries estimated to be over 300 years old. The stole was trimmed with fox fur sourced from a vintage fur coat, adding to the strong references to historical and enduring fashion themes.

Daniel Del Core took a more personal approach, aiming to create something special for Eliza Gonzalez. He dressed the Mexican actress in a gown that unfurled into an orchid shape through the layering of silk organza. Del Core explained in a release, “I started the design process by studying the Vanilla Orchid, Mexico’s state flower. I became captivated by the delicacy of its petals and envisioned the unfolding of the blossom like a time-lapse. That’s the moment I sought to capture.”